The Influence of XIX Century Costume on Women's Fashion in Spring-Summer 2008 Collections

One of the ideas of this text is to emphasize the history and existing literature dedicated to the historical fashion costume of the xix century, as well as the contemporary costume, focusing on the laws by which fashion has developed and moved from its beginning to the present day. As an example, we can point to Dudnikova's text, who makes detailed studies of the history of the costume, starting from Ancient Egypt, exploring the specificities of fashion from antiquity to the beginning of the XXI century. At the beginning of the XIX, the entire XX and XXI centuries as a result of the technological revolution, which plays an important role in fashion and clothing, the aesthetic paradigms are changing radically. The enjoyment of the authentic and masterful embodiment of human desires in fashion is replaced by its presentation as a new reality, capable of replacing man's representations of it. If in the past historical eras a general appearance dominated, subordinated to the suggestion of certain ideas, for the XXI century the aesthetic pleasure is replaced by the functional elements imposed by the industrial production in response to the new economical demands. The visual perception of the modern women's costume is undergoing a substantial transformation. Here we can talk not only about changing the form (transformation), but also about changing the focus (transfocation). The fashion costume is seen not as a separate and independent object, but the attention of fashion designers is focused on the costume as part of the global processes in the field of applied art. In modern society, thanks to the Internet, the designer is in a position to create fashion creations in every point of the planet. The boundaries of the "center-periphery" or "East-West" binary oppositions are blurred and lose their clear contours. This necessitates a redefinition of the term "fashion" and "fashion trend" as an integral part of culture, which makes the implication a particularly attractive tool in the process of creating new fashion lines. The creative character of the creation of fashion and fashion collections is retained, but at the same time it is rationalized, knowing which of the achievements of historical fashion can be applied in the new century. They are in turn correlated with the so-called social and psychological phenomena – building self-confidence, entering the agenda of society and having the possibility of choice. This choice, on the other hand, shows that fashion and fashion expression, just like the work of art, are the foundation of every cultural upheaval.

Keywords: historical costume of the XIX century, implication, fashion of the XXI century - 2008