Golomeova, Saska and Demboski, Goran (2018) Garment quality increasing by seam properties improving. Knowledge - International Journal, Scientific and Applicative Papers, 22 (4). pp. 963-1124. ISSN 1857-923X
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Зголемување на квалитетот на облека преку подобрување на својствата на шевот.pdf Download (1MB) | Preview |
Abstract
Quality is very important in garment business. Customers demand and expectation is of supreme importance in garment business because the market trends change rapidly in short period of time. The constantly changing of the fashion trends, and demand for novelty products, is the reason for the rapid development of textile technology. This results in development of various types of fabrics of different properties that come into the garment production without sufficient information of fabric properties, which imposes production problems for garment engineers. Usually, in the garment industry the fabric purchasing is made on the basis of several properties such as the raw material composition, the type of fabric and the fabric weight, while the other structural, mechanical and processability properties are unknown to the garment engineers. Some of the supplied materials in the pre-production tests show very low seam strength and poor seam efficiency, which may result in production of garment with low quality. For these reasons, finding available techniques to improve these properties and increase the quality of the seam is a challenge for garment engineers. Seam strength refers to the load required to break a seam. Seam efficiency is expressed as the ratio of seam and fabric strength. Seam efficiency measures the durability along the seam line. The aim of the research in this paper is to investigate the possibilities for improving the seam strength and efficiency by application of various types of thermoplastic stitched reinforced tapes in the seam construction. Thermoplastic stitched reinforced tapes are applied wherever stability and shape- giving support are required. In this research, three thermoplastic stitched reinforced tapes with different structure, for seam strengthening of lightweight fabrics were used. The investigated fabrics represent are part of several years production programme of factories for production of high quality light ladies garments. The fusing process was performed at the temperature of 135⁰C, 3 bar pressure for 13 seconds. Seam samples without reinforcement and reinforced with fused tape were sewn. A group of ISO standards (ISO 13934-2:2004 + ISO 13935-2:2004) for determination of fabric strength and seam strength were used for seams testing. The samples were tested on ASDL Atlas tensile tester. The obtained results have shown that, the insertion of the thermoplastic stitched reinforced tape in seam structure, affects increasing of the seam strength and efficiency. Percentage of seam strength and seam efficiency improvement varies due to the fabric and thermoplastic stitched reinforced tape structure.
Key words: seam strength, seam efficiency, garment quality
| Item Type: | Article |
|---|---|
| Subjects: | Engineering and Technology > Materials engineering |
| Divisions: | Faculty of Technology |
| Depositing User: | Saska Golomeova |
| Date Deposited: | 06 Jul 2018 06:57 |
| Last Modified: | 06 Jul 2018 06:57 |
| URI: | https://eprints.ugd.edu.mk/id/eprint/19831 |
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